Dragonera Beach

Dragonera, the beach of the pines

Dragonera was the first beach we set foot on after getting off the ferry. Not the one at the port, this one: a pebble cove on the west coast, surrounded by pines that all but dip their branches in the water. We came by bike from Skala, pedalling along the ring road. The turning is signposted. A dirt track drops down between the trees and then, suddenly, there it is.

The first thing you think when you see Dragonera is that the name is too big for it. “Dragonera” sounds like legend, sea monster, mythological battle. But the beach is the opposite: calm, tucked in, almost homely. Perhaps the dragon went on holiday.

The beach is fine pebbles and transparent water. The bottom is rock, so water shoes are no bad thing. But the water is so clear you can see every little stone down there. The snorkelling here is excellent. Among the rocks at either end hide colourful fish, sea urchins and, with luck, a curious octopus.

The best thing about Dragonera is the pines. They grow so close to the water that they throw dense shade over much of the beach. You can lie on your towel reading a book with no need for an umbrella. Resin in the air, a sea breeze and the water lapping two metres away. The perfect plan for a summer afternoon.

In high season there is a small beach bar serving drinks and sandwiches. They also rent loungers. But the mood stays relaxed. No music at full volume, no crowds. Greek families come with their cool boxes and their inflatables. The children splash at the shoreline. The grandparents read the paper under the pines.

Dragonera is not the most spectacular beach on Agistri. Aponissos has that covered. Nor the wildest, which is Chalikiada. But it is the most balanced. Pretty, easy to reach and with just enough services. We went back three times during our stay. Not one of them let us down.