Chalikiada Beach

Chalikiada, the secret at the end of the path

Chalikiada does not let itself be conquered easily. And that is exactly what makes it special. Where Aponissos welcomes you with a bridge, a taverna and loungers, Chalikiada tests you. You have to earn it. And when you do, when you finally come down that dusty path and see the cove appear between the pines, you understand that the effort was worth every drop of sweat.

Access is the big barrier. From Skala, take the ring road heading west. You pass Megalochori. You pass the turning for Dragonera. You reach Skliri, that little cove with its beach bar. And from there, instead of giving up and settling in, you look for the dirt path that goes into the pine wood on your left.

It is barely 500 metres. But 500 Greek metres. The path winds between pines heavy with resin. The ground is a mix of earth, pine needles and loose stones. There are stretches with a bit of a gradient. It is not dangerous, but decent footwear helps. Keep the flip-flops in your rucksack.

After about fifteen minutes of walking, the path comes out onto a small cliff. And there is Chalikiada. A cove of fine pebbles held by pines that grow out of the cliff face itself. The water is deep blue, almost violet at the edges. So clear you can see the bottom at five metres. The pines cast shade over the shore for a good part of the day.

The final drop to the beach is down an improvised staircase of rocks and roots. You need to take it carefully, especially if you are carrying the cool box, the umbrella and the towel. But once you are down, the reward is total. Chalikiada is big, calm and almost always half empty.

It is the only officially nudist beach on Agistri and in the whole Aegina area. It is not compulsory, mind. But if you come across someone without a swimsuit, do not be surprised. The atmosphere is thoroughly respectful. People after quiet, sun and a good book under the pines.

There is nothing at Chalikiada. No loungers, no beach bar, no shower, no lifeguard. Zero services. This is nature, plain and hard. So come prepared. Plenty of water. Food for the day. Sun cream. And an umbrella if you do not want to depend on the shade of the pines.

The water is a delight. Cold and crystal clear even in the middle of August. The bottom is pebbly, so water shoes help for getting in and out. The snorkelling is superb on the rocks at either end of the cove. Colourful fish, sea urchins and the odd curious moray in the cracks.

The best time is the morning. At ten the sun is already warm but not brutal. The path is cooler. And you are more likely to find the beach to yourself. At midday the sun comes straight down and the stones burn. But you have the Mediterranean a metre away. You need nothing else.

Chalikiada was the last beach we found on Agistri. And it was the one that made us promise we would come back. Because on an island this small, this close to Athens, finding a corner this wild is almost a miracle. If you come to Agistri and you do not walk down this path, you will be missing something big. Literally.