The pine forest of Agistri
A green blanket covering 87% of the island. Trails through Aleppo pines running down to the sea, the smell of resin and a silence broken only by cicadas. The green lung of the Saronic Gulf.
The pine forest, the green soul of Agistri
There are picture-postcard Greek islands with white houses and blue domes. And then there is Agistri, which is above all green. An intense, almost aggressive green that covers every hill, every slope, every corner of the island. 87% of Agistri is Aleppo pine forest. And that forest is the real reason to come here.
The first thing you notice stepping off the ferry is the smell. Pine resin mixes with salt air and creates a scent that stays with you for your whole stay. It is addictive. Close your eyes, breathe in deep, and the trip has already paid for itself.
The forest is not a fenced-off park. It is the whole island. You can ride through it on a bike along the ring road, or walk the paths that cross it. There is no tourist signage. But it is hard to get lost. The island is 13 square kilometres and the sea is always in sight.
One of the loveliest walks starts from Metochi and heads into the thick of it towards the west coast. The ground is carpeted with pine needles. The branches filter the light into golden patches that dance in the wind. Every so often, between the trunks, a rectangle of blue appears: the sea.
Halfway along we found a clearing looking out over the cliffs. We sat on a moss-covered rock. The silence was almost total. Only the wind in the treetops and, far below, the murmur of waves against the rock. In that moment we understood why Athenians come here to switch off.
The forest is also home to small but interesting wildlife. We saw squirrels, green lizards and colourful butterflies. If you get up early, you might come across a skittish rabbit. Birds are the real stars: sparrows, goldfinches and, in spring, bee-eaters with their acrobatic flight.
The best thing about the Agistri forest is that you do not have to share it. Out of season you can walk for hours without meeting anyone. Just you, the pines and the sea. For us, that is the greatest luxury there is.