Vlychos Beach

Vlychos is the most popular beach on Hydra and for good reasons. It has the best balanced mix of small pebbles and a bit of sand (very fine black sand, in fact) that you will find on the island, which makes it far more comfortable than the rock platforms at the harbour and a good deal more manageable than Bisti or Limnioniza. It is barely 1 kilometre from the main harbour along a coastal path that first passes through Kaminia, so the walk is one of the loveliest on the island, with views over the Peloponnese the whole way. For many visitors, Vlychos is the first (and sometimes the only) beach they set foot on in Hydra.

The walk from the harbour takes about 25 to 30 minutes at a normal pace. It is virtually flat and hugs the sea all the way, with stretches shaded by old pines and olive trees. On the final section, just before dropping down to the beach, you cross an old eighteenth century stone bridge over a dry riverbed (which runs hard in winter): it is one of the most photographed corners in the area, especially at dusk when the light is low. If you are going in the middle of a heatwave or with small children, the alternative is the water taxi from the harbour quay: it takes 5 minutes and costs between 5 and 7 euros per person in a group. There is also a small shuttle boat that leaves from Spilia every 30 to 40 minutes in summer.

The beach itself is around 180 metres long, sheltered by an islet, and the entry into the water is gentle (which matters with children). The bottom is small stones, so many families bring water shoes or crocs to avoid stubbing their feet on the way in. The two beach tavernas are what set Vlychos apart from Hydra’s wilder beaches: they sit right on the sand, serve proper meals (not just sandwiches) and will set you up with a sunbed and umbrella for around 15-20 € for two. One of them, Marina’s Taverna, has been serving moussaka and grilled octopus for decades and is well known among the Hydriots. The other, Enalion, is more recent and has a more modern Mediterranean feel. Both will bring the food straight to your sunbed if you ask.

On the usual pain points: natural shade is very scarce (the pines are set back and do not reach the sand), so renting an umbrella is practically compulsory in July and August, or bring your own. The beach gets full in summer, above all from midday to 16:00, when the day trips from Athens arrive; the local plan is to come first thing (before 10:00) or, better still, from 17:00 onwards, once the cruises have gone and the golden light makes the water glow. The water temperature is a little colder than on the east coast of the island (around 21-23°C in July): it comes off open sea and you can tell. One last warning: there are no proper changing rooms, only the back room of the beach bar; get dressed and undressed under a towel like everyone else.

If you want somewhere quieter or with more sand, Plakes is in the same cove (to the north), another 10 minutes on foot: slightly wider, almost identical in feel but less busy. And if what you really want is proper sand, you will have to make the trip to Mandraki, on the other side of the harbour.