Monastery of Profitis Ilias

The Monastery of the Prophet Elijah (Profitis Ilias in Greek, Profitou Iliou on some maps) is the classic excursion for anyone spending more than a day on Hydra and the best way to see the whole island from a single point. It clings to the southern slope of Mount Eros at around 500 metres of altitude (not the summit, which is at 588 m), and you reach it on foot along a cobbled path that starts directly from the upper part of the town. The walk is demanding but short: 2 hours up and an hour and a half down, with a climb of some 480 metres from the port. This is not a route to do in August heat; we recommend setting off at dawn (6 or 7 in the morning) or going in autumn, when the temperature is kinder.

The path starts at the end of Miaouli street, where the tarmac turns into cobbled steps. The first 20 minutes are the hardest because they cross the built up area and you climb almost vertically until you leave the last houses behind. Then the path eases and becomes a zigzagging mule track rising through a hillside of gorse, dwarf pines and wild olives. There are shaded stretches and others completely exposed to the sun. If you get thirsty easily, we recommend carrying at least 1.5 litres of water per person because there are no springs along the way. Footwear with a decent sole is essential: the path is cobbled but the stones have been polished by centuries of mule traffic and are more slippery than they look, especially on the way down.

Near the top there is an important fork: to the right it climbs to the monastery of Profitis Ilias (the main destination); to the left to the convent of Agia Efpraxia, much smaller and normally with more restricted visiting hours. Most visitors go up to Profitis Ilias and, if they have any energy left, pay a quick visit to the convent too, barely ten minutes away on foot.

The monastery was founded in the 18th century and still today houses an active community of monks. Entry is free but there are strict dress rules worth knowing before you climb: arms and legs covered for men and women, no vest tops or shorts. If you turn up in shorts, the monks lend out wraps to cover your legs (this is routine and there is no need to feel bad about asking). You can visit the main church with its carved wooden iconostasis, the courtyard and, depending on which monk is on duty, a room or two with old icons. Photographs are not allowed inside the church. The monks usually offer cold water and a traditional sweet (loukoumi or similar) to visitors who arrive tired: it is a lovely tradition, so it is not rude to accept.

What everyone comes for, beyond the monastery itself, are the views. From the outside terrace you can see the whole of Hydra town in miniature down below, the port with its boats like little white dots, the coast of the Peloponnese behind, the islands of Spetses and Poros on the horizon and, on clear days, as far as Aegina. It is one of those views that justify the effort on their own. If your legs are up to it, the more adventurous carry on another 30 to 45 minutes along a slightly more confusing path to the summit of Mount Eros (588 m), where there is a small chapel and 360 degree views. For that final extension you need more experience: the path is waymarked with red paint but sometimes gets lost in the scrub. Better to go with company, or with GPS downloaded offline.