Church of Agioi Anargyroi

Agioi Anargyroi, the white and blue soul of Skala

Some images define an island. On Santorini it is the blue domes of Oia set against the caldera. On Mykonos, the windmills. On Agistri it is the church of Agioi Anargyroi. White, with its bright blue dome and its bell tower leaning out over the sea. If you have seen a photo of this island, it was probably of this church.

You find it the moment you arrive in Skala. It is built on a small rocky promontory that juts into the sea, splitting the main beach into two halves. To the left, the shadier side with its olive trees. To the right, the sunnier part. The church is the axis. The geometric and spiritual centre of the village.

Agioi Anargyroi means “the unmercenary saints”. Saint Cosmas and Saint Damian, two third-century doctors who, according to tradition, healed people without charging. Hence the “unmercenary” part. The church is dedicated to them and is the centre of religious life in Skala.

Its architecture is simple but flawless. Whitewashed walls that dazzle you in the midday sun. A blue dome that competes with the Greek sky for intensity. A three-arched bell tower cut out against the sea. It is not big. It is not showy. But it is perfect in its simplicity.

The inside is plain. Gilded icons, lit candles, the smell of incense hanging in the air. The cool gloom inside contrasts with the blinding white outside. If you are lucky and find it open, go in. Sit for a moment on one of the wooden benches. Listen to the silence. It is one of those places where time stretches out.

On 1 July, Skala celebrates the feast of Agioi Anargyroi. It is the village’s big day. Live music, traditional dancing, roast lamb for everyone. The church is decked out and the whole village throws itself into it. If your dates line up, do not miss it. It is Greece at its purest.

But the best time to visit is sunset. The sun goes down right behind the promontory. The church stands out against a sky on fire. The water in the bay reflects the white and the blue. If you walk a little way along the beach and take the photo from the water, with your phone almost at sea level, you will get the perfect shot. The same one you have been seeing online since you decided to come to Agistri.

We sat on the rocks next to the church as evening fell. The waves lapped at the stone. An elderly couple were lighting candles inside. The six o’clock ferry was pulling out for Piraeus, leaving a white wake on the calm sea. And we understood why this small white and blue church is, for so many people, the symbol of Agistri. Because it sums up in a single image everything this island offers: simplicity, beauty and the sea as your horizon.